The Grey Corries

Wednesday 26th July 2006

Until this walk the record for the longest walk I'd ever done was 11 hours set last Good Friday, but now I had beaten that record by a whole hour. This walk took me 12 hours from start to finish, though while I knew this was going to be a long one I didn't realise I wouldn't get back to the youth hostel until 9.30pm, but really what's the big deal? No one was expecting me at any particular time, so I could took take as long as I wanted, and that was what I did.

The day started early catching a bus to Fort William, where I picked up some supplies before catching another bus, this time to Spean Bridge. After all that travelling I was ready to start the walk, and the time was 09.30. The first 2½ hours was spent walking along initially along a road to Corriechoille Farm and then for many miles rising through a plantation on a landrover track to the Lairig Leagach. Now the hard bit began and the time was 12.00. Following a small burn I somehow managed to scramble up the almost cliff face of Creag an Fhireoin into a shallow corrie below the eastern slopes of Stob Coire na Ceannain.

I may have managed to climb up to this corrie, but I had no energy left to go any further. After more than a week's strenuous walking in the Western Highlands I was exhausted and totally drained of energy; I collapsed and started raiding the supplies I'd bought at the beginning of the day. Replenished I set off towards the eastern ridge of Stob Coire na Ceannain climbing the steep white boulders onto and along the ridge to gain the summit. The time was now 14.00 so I had lunch. After lunch all my fatigue had gone and the real fun could begin as I was now on top of the Grey Corries with great walking to be had upon a succession of rocky tops connected by exciting narrow ridges; what more is there to life!

First off I crossed the ridge (scrambling along the way), to the first Munro of the day and the highest in the Grey Corries, Stob Coire Claurigh. The full range of the Grey Corries could now be seen stretching out before me as an endless succession of white stone topped mountains. It was a glorious view that has to be one of the highlights of my whole holiday, along with the view down Glen Coe. With great joy all the way I walked along the ridge passing the tops along the way, Stob a'Choire Leith, Stob Coire Cath na Sine, Caisteal and finally Stob Coire an Laoigh. This last one is another Munro and at this point the ridge turns half right leading to Stob Coire Easain. The ridge now turns full left and descends spectacularly on a rocky platform to a wide bealach before my third Munro of the day, Sgurr Choinnich Mor.

My excitement was now largely over and as I passed over Sgurr Choinnich Beag it was 18.00 and yet I was just at the beginning of my long descent. Following the Allt Coire a'Bhuic I scampered down the grassy hillside until eventually I reached a footpath that passes through a valley that turns out to be Glen Nevis, so you would have thought that only a short walk would be required to bring me back to the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel. Unfortunately I was near the source of the Nevis and the valley is very long, even if picturesque. I may have had a long walk ahead of me but I would be passing through some of the most beautiful landscapes in the area. Not least of which is Steall waterfall and the Water of Nevis gorge. These are stunning places that I was having the privilege of seeing all on my own in the evening sun.

Passing through the gorge and walking along a road for a bit I eventually arrived at the Glen Nevis lower falls bus stop. Would there be a bus waiting for me? Alas, no, for the last bus is at 19.05 and it was now 20.30 so I had only one option. A one hour journey along forest tracks brought me back to the youth hostel exactly 12 hours since I'd begun my walk in Spean Bridge. Unlike my walk on Good Friday, this walk did not drag during its final hours. Except for my problems during the initial climb when I simply needed something to eat I suffered no difficulty with the endurance, probably because after more than a week of walking in the Highlands I am much fitter. I am in a better position now to do a 12 hour walk, and besides, that was only a 6 hour mountain walk with an additional 6 hour valley walk. The mountain walk was fantastic, but it's a pity I had to do the valley walk as well.