Scafell Pike and Illgill Head

Sunday 8th October 2006

After my ordeals on the day before I was still a bit rough and drained of energy at the start of this day, but I still managed to walk all the way from Borrowdale to Wastwater and I went over the highest hill in England on the way. Knowing that I had a long day ahead of me I set off from the Derwent Water Youth Hostel straight after breakfast and started off down the road towards Borrowdale. When I got to Lodore I looked at a path that I'd taken before (admittedly in July 2002) only to find that it was deeply submerged in water. Maybe the level of Derwent Water was high because it was autumn or maybe this field is sometimes deliberately allowed to flood to increase the marsh-land to the south of Derwent Water.

Whatever, I continued south to Grange Bridge and there I decided to abandon my plan of visiting Castle Crag on the way and caught a bus to Seatoller. It's ironic that I could have stayed in the youth hostel forty-five minutes longer and been able to catch the same bus to Seatoller. From Seatoller I walked along the road to Seathwaite Bridge, and followed a path beside the river past Seathwaite and around the headland up a scramble that afforded me with a stunning view of Taylor Gill Force. On my first holiday in the Lake District I walked over Scafell Pike and descended to Borrowdale using this path. I hadn't been back over this path since and I had been missing a great walk. I really enjoyed it and the sun came out in response. Arriving at Sty Head the weather was so good I thought I would attempt a straight ascent up Great End via the Band. I had decided not to attempt this route at Easter due to the weather so I was hoping to be able to do it on this walk. It was too tempting to miss the opportunity so I headed up the path to Esk Hause branching off before the stream to climb steeply up the grass slope. Unfortunately just at that moment it started raining and it soon became obvious that an ascent would not be possible on this occasion. Resignedly I made my way back down to Sty Head and took the path along the corridor route, and I was not too disappointed as despite the rain I was now on an excellent path that hugs the side of the hill below Great End that traverses a great route steadily climbing all the way up to Lingmell Col. I have taken this path many times and never tired of the rugged route.

In a departure from the norm, instead of going all the way up to Lingmell Col I turned left up the path to Broad Crag Col. I had never taken this route before and found the last section to be very steep and tiring as it climbs up a steep scree slope below the col. I was now in clouds as I struggled up the scree and when I eventually arrived at the col I was disheartened to realise that I still had more climbing to go before I finally reached the top of Scafell Pike. I was now so drained of energy, perhaps a holdover from the previous evening, that the last section was a real test of my stamina as I had no strength left for even one more step. Eventually the summit emerged through the clouds and I summoned one more ounce of strength from somewhere to get me over the last couple of metres. With no more strength left I collapsed in the lee of the wind with my back against the summit platform.

Slowly I ate my lunch and gradually my tired body came back to life. Seemingly in response the clouds lifted to reveal the gorgeous views all around me and would persist for the rest of the afternoon. With renewed vigour thanks to my lunch and the clear views I headed across to Mickledore until I was standing below Broad Stand. Carefully I clambered down the slippery slope below Scafell Crag and to the start of Lord's Rake. After being thwarted from doing Great End I was really looking forward to doing Lord's Rake. I had done the rake for the first time at Easter (having previously been put off by the negative comments of certain organizations) when there was snow in parts of the rake. I was keen to do the rake again with no snow in it, plus it made a handy shortcut from Scafell Pike to the eastern slopes of Sca Fell. Once again I really enjoyed the rake, which is a fabulous climb in awesome scenery. It is quite simply the Lake District at its very best.

On the other side of Lord's Rake instead of climbing up to the top of Sca Fell I descended the long grassy slopes to the horrendous bogs at the bottom. With my feet now thoroughly soaked I started climbing up to the top of Illgill Head and on reaching a broken wall I joined a path on the north side that followed the wall all the way up to the top. This is a fabulous route, even if tiring, and afforded me with tremendous views of the scenery around Wasdale Head and of Wastwater. After visiting the summit I headed across the grassy plain towards Whin Rigg exploring the cliff edges above the Wastwater Screes on the way. Once over the top I began a quick descent down to Wastwater Youth Hostel, killing my knees as I ran down the steep zigzags. I love descending that sort of path quickly as it is so challenging and fun. Plus it was necessary as I had to reach the youth hostel before six so I could order my dinner. The final section of the walk that involved crossing the river and passing through a wood was equally quick and after I was well-fed at the youth hostel all my ill-health of the day before was forgotten. After a good night's sleep I was ready for anything, even another gruelling walk.