Saturday 24th August 2024
While reviewing the route of stage eighteen of the Cambrian Way beforehand I realised that it resembles a walk that I did in 2019 over the mountains of Moelwyn Mawr and Cnicht, and so it lacked interest for me. I had planned to use the Snowdonia Slate Trail between those mountains as a bad weather option and this did spark my interest, despite having good weather on this walk. I set off from the campsite where I had been staying back into the village of Maentwrog and across the Vale of Ffestiniog on the Cambrian Way into the Coedydd Maentwrog National Nature Reserve. This was a fabulous walk through oak woodland on a path that gently climbed the hillside through a landscape rich in moss and lichen while the sun shone breathtakingly through the leaves. Eventually I passed a waterfall and up to the track of the narrow gauge Ffestiniog Railway, which I followed into Ddualt Station where the railway, uniquely for Britain, goes round a tight loop to gain height and passes over itself, before continuing north. The Cambrian Way climbs over a hill while the railway uses a tunnel and then on the other side skirts the edge of Tanygrisiau Reservoir, part of a pumped storage power station. At this point the Cambrian Way climbs Moelwyn Mawr passing the higher reservoir of the power station, but I had decided to keep to the shore of the lower reservoir.
I was feeling very tired at this point after two weeks of strenuous walking on the Cambrian Way during which I think I might not have been eating well or sleeping properly while in my tent, so when I came across a lakeside café I decided to stop and have a late breakfast, which was just what I needed. From there I could have returned to the Cambrian Way, but the route of the Snowdonia Slate Trail was more appealing to me so I headed steeply up to a busy car park, which I had used in 2019, and is at the entrance to the disused Cwmorthin Slate Quarry. In the sunshine this was a pleasurable walk passing the remains of the quarry and the reservoir, Llyn Cwmorthin, while slowly climbing the rocky path that led me up to the top of the pass and the fascinating sight of a stream rapidly falling into a sinkhole. I have passed through Bwlch Rhosydd many times, but I have never before taken the path through Cwmorthin so I relished the opportunity now, lingering over every step and taking many pictures. I sat beside one of the ruined quarry buildings at the top of the pass to shelter from the cold wind while having my lunch and taking in the view, and afterwards I had some difficulty finding the continuation of the Snowdonia Slate Trail, since this was not clear and when I eventually found the route it was marked only by a tiny sign that pointed up the hillside. Soon the path became clearer and offered me with stunning views across the wide plain of the pass and the surrounding mountains, before eventually bringing me to Llyn Croesor where the path descended to the disused Croesor Quarry.
Beyond the quarry the trail slowly descended into the valley on a clear track that provided me with a relaxing stroll in the good weather while the wind blew strongly. On reaching the bottom of the valley I passed through the village of Croesor and climbed up over the shoulder of Cnicht where the path from the distinctive peak comes down including the Cambrian Way, which now joins the Snowdonia Slate Trail. The onward path was very wet, often with a stream running down the footpath and I was reminded that I previously came this way on an activity for a residential on a supervisory management course back in 1997. That was a significant moment in my life as up to that point I had hardly done any walking, but it was my experiences on this path that sparked my interest and the following summer I had my first ever walking holiday, in the Peak District. So, this path was the start of everything that completely changed my life, but I’m sure it hadn’t been as bad then as I now found it. Eventually the path improved and I reached a road that led me through the hamlet of Nantmor and to the Pass of Aberglaslyn. A wonderful path took me through this narrow valley that I had previously traversed in 2019 and I loved the opportunity to return, taking many pictures as I went, though this was hindered by the many other people also taking the path.
In Beddgelert this stage of the Cambrian Way ends, but because of my short cut it was now only mid-afternoon and when I tried to resupply in the small shop in Beddgelert I found it didn’t stock everything I needed. While pondering my options, the bus to Porthmadog appeared and since I had plenty of time I jumped on that and stocked up in the coastal town instead. I also grabbed some fish & chips for dinner before catching the bus back to Beddgelert, which was now considerably quieter than when I’d left. However, while trying to book accommodation in the area I had found that none of the campsites would let me book just one night and instead insisted on my booking for the whole bank holiday weekend, which is difficult when you are doing a long distance trail. All my other options were very expensive, because of the bank holiday weekend, so in the end I decided I would wild camp, which is difficult to do surreptitiously in such a busy area. Before I set off I also had to decide where I was going to be walking the next day when the forecast was very poor. The Cambrian Way goes over Yr Wyddfa, better known as Snowdon, the next day, but bad weather prevented that from being an option, so I decided to continue on the Snowdonia Slate Trail until I could find somewhere to camp. Since the weather was good that evening I kept going for several miles, walking alongside and crossing the Welsh Highland Railway several times before passing the path that climbs towards Moel Hebog and entering the conifer plantation of Beddgelert Forest where I continued walking for another hour until eventually I stopped for the night.
This was a very enjoyable day’s walking until I reached Beddgelert, though throughout the day the uncertainty about my overnight stop had lingered in my mind and this eventually worked out alright. I enjoyed being on paths that I had not been on before, or at least in the last twenty-five years, especially as I took an easier route which helped me to recover from my exertions of earlier in the holiday. The good weather was a welcome change after a week of storms but unfortunately storms were forecast to be back the following day, so it is a shame that I didn’t take the opportunity that good weather had provided me and get to the top of a mountain on this walk.
