Wednesday 21st May 2025
My previous day on the Cambrian Way, while climbing over the Brecon Beacons, had been very tiring so I was glad when I finally reached the Brecon Beacons Youth Hostel at the end of the day, despite a relatively early finish that gave me a chance to rest. I appreciated sleeping in a bed and in the morning I felt refreshed as I set off on the seventh stage of the Cambrian Way, which still traverses wild mountain scenery in Bannau Brycheiniog, but is less strenuous that the sixth stage. Technically the seventh stage starts from the Storey Arms car park, but my Cicerone guidebook offers a shortcut from the youth hostel through the Graig Cerrig Gleisiad National Nature Reserve, which I was more than happy to take, initially through woodland decorated with bluebells before emerging onto the open hillside with the impressive crags before me and immediately I crossed the stream to climb steeply up to the top. This was an enjoyable path that snaked ingeniously up the hillside while behind me were stunning views down the valley of Glyn Tarrell and towards the town of Brecon. The rain when I got up at the start of the day had soon ended and already I had blue skies and sunshine for my walk, which was much better than the overcast weather that had accompanied me last year on this stage when I first attempted the Cambrian Way. My path took me around the top of Craig Cerrig-gleisiad before turning left to head into the Fforest Fawr, which is a quiet, less trodden part of the national park and lies between the Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountain.
Feeling upbeat and more energetic than on the previous two days, I made my way along the clear path of the Beacons Way crossing bare grassy slopes before climbing onto the northern ridge of Fan Dringarth and over the other side to rejoin the Cambrian Way but with no path to follow. Eventually I reached the Roman road of Sarn Helen, which now appears to be little more than a toilet for sheep so I came off the track at the earliest opportunity and headed west ignoring the diversion that the Cambrian Way makes to the south taking in the standing stone of Maen Llia. I did that path last year so I had no hesitation in cutting the corner now, which I hoped would avoid the boggy ground in the area, though some bogs were still encountered on my new path. Soon I reached a road where I stopped for my lunch just as I had done previously to take in the stupendous views that are available from this point down the valley of the Afon Senni. This was a mesmerising sight, so I was more than happy to stop for a rest before setting off again across the northern slopes of Fan Nedd with the valley behind me continuing to attract my notice while ahead of me, beyond the steep hillside, I could see the highest point on this stage of the trail, Fan Gyhirych, while a strong wind encouraged me to put on my cagoule. With nothing but grass covering the hillsides I had nothing to interest me except for the distant views, which were mostly behind, so I just kept going focusing on the music I was listening to and on reaching the far side of Fan Nedd I climbed the dull grassy hillside of the eastern ridge of Fan Gyhirych.
I ignored the wide, gravel track at the top of the ridge to follow a faint path beside the edge of the escarpment with views north over Cray Reservoir while behind me the twin peaks of the Brecon Beacons, Pen y Fan and Corn Du, dominated the skyline. I was becoming conscious of the need to not take the same pictures as I had last year, though on this walk the better weather was encouraging me to do just that. I took loads of pictures of the valleys of Glyn Tarrell and Glen Senni, and from this point back to the Brecon Beacons, but since I had used those same angles on this blog last year, though the weather then was not so good, I feel the need to find some different pictures this time that showcases other parts of the walk, even though they may not be as spectacular as the aforementioned. When I reached the trig point at the summit of Fan Gyhirych I sat for a rest while several people passed by and were the first I had seen all day, which made the top seem busy. The Cambrian Way descends the southern slopes of Fan Gyhirych to eventually end the stage in Glyntawe, which is what I did last year, but my Cicerone guidebook also describes a direct route for those not seeking accommodation in the Swansea Valley. So, this time I turned north, after avoiding the steep northern slopes, crossing the gentler western slopes following a line of boundary stones that were not prominent enough to aid navigation, and so I constantly felt the need to check my location to ensure I was keeping on route.
A final, very steep and tricky descent brought me to the A4067 road where my difficulties continued over a tiresome, uninteresting ridge, Cefn Cul, which had to be traversed with hardly any path to follow. Eventually I reached a narrow road on the other side where a clear path now led me up the hillside beyond beside the Nant y Llyn stream and though it started to rain this was ultimately short-lived and it was the strong winds that were my biggest problem. It is much more pleasant walking when it is not windy, but the winds are always stronger at the top of a hill, so they are often unavoidable. Eventually I reached the lake of Llyn y Fan Fawr where I spent a good while wandering around trying to find some shelter from the wind, but eventually I found a spot beside the eastern shore of the lake where I put up my tent and spent the night. I believe this is a popular place to wild camp and though this was my first time, I could immediately see why it appeals, especially in the sunny weather. Except for the climb up to and around the crags of the nature reserve, there was nothing particularly interesting or fun about this walk as the rest of the terrain has been ruined by overgrazing that has left the hills as bare grassy mounds. It was all just dull, dull, dull, immensely dull grassy hills with no redeeming features at all for me, apart from the good sunny weather that at least provided me with stunning views in all directions.

