Eagle Crag and Helm Crag

Tuesday 27th May 2008

The weather for my last day in the Lake District was not very nice. After three days of glorious weather (aside from the wind) I woke up to a grey, overcast day with rain in the morning, so the usual Lake District weather. I was however still able to accomplish a walk that I have tried to do on a number of occasions during the past year. I had planned to do this walk in January and was only thwarted by failing to get to the bus station in Keswick on time. This time last year I had thought of walking from the Langdale Pikes across the western slopes of High Raise to Eagle Crag until common sense prevailed as that would have been an utterly pointless route to Eagle Crag. The attraction of Eagle Crag is the seemingly impenetrable cliffs that dominate the Stonethwaite landscape; any other route of ascent would lose the point. Good weather would have been handy for this ascent, Wainwright claims it’s essential, but that didn’t spoil what was a fabulous walk.

After getting off the bus in Rosthwaite I walked along Stonethwaite to the junction with Langstrath, a valley I have walked along just once before and that was in pouring rain (I should make its acquaintance in better conditions). Crossing the bridge into Langstrath I immediately turned off the main path and walked for a short spell beside Greenup Gill. After crossing a second wall I turned right and climbed steeply up the bracken covered slopes beside a wall through the rain that was coming down at this time. Despite the weather the views into Borrowdale were improving with every step until I reached the promontory of Bleak How. Now the fun really began on the ascent as I made my way into a gully on the Langstrath side of the crag from which I emerged on a terrace directly under the crag. Moving right below the crag further into Langstrath I found a series of terraces that I was able to climb and led me all the way up to the summit where I was rewarded with amazing views of Borrowdale and Langstrath. After the wait the climb proved to be great fun, absolutely brilliant, even in the bad weather. I have been eager to do this climb for months because I knew it would be good and it didn’t let me down.

From Eagle Crag I climbed down a short step and made my way along an interesting little path to Eagle Crag’s bigger brother, Sergeant’s Crag. This fell has a notable peak with a satisfyingly small summit that from a distance looks almost pyramidal. Last winter I could see this peak in the distance from High Seat but I had no idea what it was and now know it was Sergeant’s Crag. After these satisfying rocky, heathery peaks I was now relegated to the drudgery of a climb up grassy slopes on High Raise’s north-western flanks. I didn’t go all the way up to the top of the fell though, for once I had topped Long Crag I crossed over below Low White Stones to Greenup Edge and with all the hard work over I joined the bridlepath from Borrowdale to Grasmere on the Coast-to-Coast route. I was now on a route that I have taken a number of times before, though the last time was over two years ago while on my way to Ulscarf.

After crossing the the head of Wythburn I reached the top of Far Easedale where I had brilliant views down the valley towards Grasmere, so with the weather improving I decided to climb up to the top of Calf Crag where I had my lunch, after which I continued along the path onto the fabulous Gibson Knott ridge. I have walked along this ridge twice before (the first time on my very first visit to the Lake District), but always from Grasmere, never going the other way and now having done it this way I think it is better. The scenery across Grasmere is more impressive while descending along the ridge and the anticipation of reaching Helm Crag at the end, probably the highlight of the ridge, adds to the appeal. The path is wonderfully engineered to minimise the effort of going over the many small tops and unlike on previous walks along this ridge that was the way I went this time (I think I was too tired to stay at the top). The path still passes over the summit of Gibson Knott before descending steeply and back up to the infamous Helm Crag, the only Lakeland summit that Wainwright failed to get to summit. On my previous visits I also failed go to climb up to the top of the large rock that sits on the summit, so on this occasion I was determined reach the top (also the sight of Julia Bradbury on the tv seemingly effortlessly climbing to the top made me think I could easily get up there as well).

Unfortunately I am unable to report a successful climb of the large rock at the summit of Helm Crag for just like Wainwright I had to eventually give up and beat a hasty retreat. There were quite a few people sitting around the summit and I think they were why I failed to get to the top. If left alone I think I would have eventually managed it, but I couldn’t help thinking they were looking at me while I failed to climb the rock. Or at least that is my excuse, I just need more time so I will easily be able to get up to the top of Helm Crag next time. Crossing over to the southern top I was easily able to get to the top (what a pity it isn’t the summit) before beginning my descent. I thought it would be interesting to try going down the original path rather than the new constructed path and I’m afraid I have to say the new one is better. The view from the old path is not much better, but it’s really steep and it is difficult to keep a grip on the loose soil. The path was over all too soon, without lingering over the descent, just dropping straight down to the bottom of the valley by the quickest route possible through the bracken that blankets the whole fell. I think in future I’ll stick to the new path that at least affords me with fascinating glimpses of Jackdaw Crag and lingering views over Grasmere. With the descent completed I strolled along the lane into Grasmere where I caught the bus to the railway station after another great time in the Lake District and I have no doubt I will have plenty more to come.