The Pennine Way, part 2

Sunday 12th April 2009

Pen-y-Ghent and Ingleborough

This was a long walk of at least 22 miles and I could feel it by the end as I also climbed three separate hills, two of them part of the illustrious Three Peaks; added to that I was walking in sensational weather that felt more like summer than early spring. The weather was so perfect, with no wind and no clouds in the sky, that I felt I couldn’t hope for anything better. I was starting from Malham, which meant another visit to Malham Cove, but this time due to my early start there wasn't a single soul there, which was a far cry from the day before when the place was teeming with tourists. At the top of the cove I had one last lingering look over the top and across the wide limestone pavement before heading off north along the dry valley of Ing Scar, which was another impressive place. High limestone walls lined either side of the narrow valley, which got narrower as I walked deeper into it with rock in abundance all around me.

Sadly this brilliant valley didn’t last long as I soon climbed out onto the high moor and across the vast plain to Malham Tarn, which I had previously visited five years ago. On that occasion I had walked over from the village of Arncliffe to Malham Tarn before following the Pennine Way over Fountains Fell and Pen-y-ghent, so now I was re-treading my steps as the Pennine Way went around the lake, past an outdoor centre and over the headland to the top of the Cowside valley. Ahead of me now was a long climb up to the top of Fountains Fell, which is a vast, bleak hill that is littered with shake holes, pot holes and the remains of previous mining operations. It was not a particularly interesting part of the walk as the landscape was just too vast and the gradient too shallow. Eventually I reached a pair of tall narrow pillars of stones near the northern edge, not far from the top of the fell, where I dropped steeply down the hillside on an excellent, old miner’s road. This was rocky underfoot and cleverly contoured the hillside to easily descend the steep slope. My attention however was drawn towards the hill opposite, a hill that dominated the view for miles around: Pen-y-ghent.

After crossing the valley I began to climb up to the top, where I was no longer alone. The path up Pen-y-ghent is very popular and when I finally managed to reach the top, after climbing the deliciously craggy southern end of the hill, I found the summit was completely packed with people. After eating my lunch I followed the path down past enormous numbers of people, who all appeared to be part of the same group. It’s just silly to have a group numbering dozens of people walking together as it spoils the very reason for going up a mountain, and spoils it for everyone else as well. The largest, ideal number for a party going up a mountain (but not the perfect number, which is one) is four, no greater. This group appeared to number almost forty. Descending quickly I soon passed all of them and eventually reached a crossroads where I turned right, even though the Pennine Way turned left. I wanted to visit the nearby Hull Pot, a huge hole in the ground, which sometimes has a river falling into it. Unfortunately the lack of rain this spring had made the river dry with a much smaller spout of water appearing at the bottom of the hole, but it was still an awesome looking place, and well worth the diversion.

On returning to the Pennine Way I walked down a green lane into the village of Horton in Ribblesdale, but my time in this valley, another of the great Yorkshire dales, would be very short as despite the Pennine Way heading north towards Hawes I headed west towards Ingleborough. My main reason for abandoning the Pennine Way at this moment was to stay at the youth hostel in Ingleton, but it also had the advantage of providing me with the opportunity of visiting the second of the Three Peaks: Ingleborough. This was a long and tiring climb, especially after having already walked fifteen miles along the Pennine Way, so it was only with a lot of effort, and a bar of Kendal Mint Cake, that I eventually managed to get up to the top. But it was worth the effort as Ingleborough is a fine mountain with a wonderfully rocky summit and has a distinctive presence in the landscape. After a pause to visit the trig point I stood by the summit cairn and surveyed my surroundings, which in the good weather was providing me with extensive views, most notably towards the Howgill Fells with the Lakeland Fells in the distance (Great Gable was clearly identifiable). All I had left to do now was an easy descent that would take me all the way down into Ingleton and was a lovely end to a wonderfully long walk in exceptionally good weather through great limestone scenery. This walk was immensely enjoyable, but it may have been even more enjoyable if it had been a little shorter without the constant need for me to keep moving. I really should have taken my time, explored the surroundings and enjoyed the scenery. Unfortunately, that’s not going to start anytime soon.