Saundersfoot to Manorbier

Friday 29th August 2014

My original plan for this day was to continue my walk along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Broad Haven, where I had reached the previous day, along the coast around the Marloes Peninsula as far as the village of Dale. Unfortunately due to a lack of availability at the Poppit Sands Youth Hostel at the start of my holiday I had been forced to delay the start of my walk around the Pembrokeshire Coast by one day. That day had to be lost towards the end of the holiday and this was where it had to be done. Beyond Dale the coastal path enters the vast estuary of Milford Haven, an area outside of the national park that is dominated by unsightly oil refineries and liquefied natural gas plants. Although the trail goes past these industries I had no intention of doing so. Instead, after spending several years trying to devise a way of circumventing the enormous natural harbour, I came up with a plan that literally approached it from the other direction.

Instead of restarting the coastal path after Milford Haven I caught a bus to the seaside town of Saundersfoot, just four miles from the end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, or is that four miles from the start? From there I would walk back along the coast towards Milford Haven on the last two days of my holiday. I didn’t like the seaside resort of Saundersfoot so set off along the coast path as soon as possible, along a road initially due to the beach route being inaccessible at high tide. The weather for this walk was once again poor with high winds, low cloud and the ever-present threat of rain. This made the walk rather tricky underfoot with slippery paths as I made my way along an otherwise pleasant route through Rhode Wood, which I thought was a nice change as woodland had been rather lacking on the trail until this point. There were a lot of gradient changes on the path that made this a particularly tiring walk and the slippery ground did not make it any easier.

On reaching Monkstone Point I took a narrow path off the trail that ventured towards the end of the promontory, but ended above high cliffs, so I quickly headed back onto the trail reaching it just as it started raining heavily. With the rain falling I took a very steep and very slippery path down onto Monkstone Beach where I immediately realised I had gone the wrong way. A man on the beach told me that he had met several people over the last couple of days who had been fooled into taking the steep path onto this beach, but that was no consolation to me for having to climb all the way back up that steep and slippery path to the top of the promontory. The proper path continued to undulate with many ups and downs until eventually I reached the delightful seaside town of Tenby, and I was so relieved to have finally reached Tenby that I stopped and had my lunch overlooking the North Beach.

I am told that I have been to Tenby before, but since I was a small child at the time I have no memory of it, and the sight of it now didn’t awaken any dormant memories. However, this is a shame as I really enjoyed Tenby and was not in a hurry to rush through the resort. Where Saundersfoot was filled with amusement arcades, Tenby had a lot of promenades that were a pleasure to walk along and where one could survey the wonderful beach at the bottom of the cliffs. I suppose my preference in seaside resorts are for those that have more of a Victorian feel to them rather than those that have a more commercialised twentieth century feel to them; I prefer Torquay rather than Blackpool. I didn’t have a lot of miles to cover on this day, unlike on my last several days, so I was able to explore Tenby and walk to the top of Castle Hill before starting a gentle stroll along the beach.

Tenby South Beach is very extensive and except for a brief climb up to the cliff-top promenade I walked along the sands all the way from St Catherine’s Island to Giltar Point. Despite very strong winds on the promontory I scrambled all the way to the end of the point for the great views through the mist over the sands back to Tenby. From there I resumed the coastal path walking through Penally Rifle Range, which fortunately wasn’t active and was carpeted with a lovely display of wildflowers. However, the weather deteriorated at this point, and it hadn’t been great all day. It started raining again so I wrapped myself up in waterproofs, kept my head down and kept going along the path without paying much notice to my surroundings. The rain stopped as I approached Lydstep Haven, which enabled me to drop down onto the beach before climbing up to Lydstep Point.

The rocks at this point were very different to those I’d previously seen as Limestone was now the dominant rock and created terrain that was remarkably different to those that I had seen on other sections of the coastal path. The weather failed to improve much during my last little section of the day that brought me from Lydstep to the Manorbier Youth Hostel. This walk was considerably shorter than on previous days where I had been walking about twenty-four miles every day, and was becoming used to it. I now almost missed the long distances and with this walk being no more than ten miles I was left rather disappointed with it. This walk might actually show that I prefer longer walks, but I think the difference with this walk is that the terrain was less dramatic than I’d previously seen and the weather was poorer.