During the autumn I had been too busy at work to do any walking and as November merged into December I dreamily thought of the Lake District. I hadn’t been there all year, and this was the first year that that had ever happened since I’d started going there in 2002, so even though I hadn’t originally planned to go away at Christmas I was becoming so fed up with the never-ending stream of work I eventually realised that I desperately wanted to go to the Lake District. I had planned on going on a short trip to the Lake District in the autumn but a busy work schedule had prevented me, so it wasn't until all the Christmas orders were complete that I was finally unleashed and able to go to where the place that I love. At the earliest possible opportunity I drove all the way to the Lake District only to find abysmal weather. It was really windy and persistent rain was resulting in flooding in some of the valleys so my planned walk had to take account of the weather.
My plan was to walk up Raven Crag, which is a hill that I had climbed once before, on New Year’s Day, 2009. Although it was a similar time of the year the weather was completely different with clear blue skies and icy conditions underfoot, whereas now I had rain and mud underfoot. After four hours spent trundling up the M6 I parked at a small car park at the western end of the dam for Thirlmere Reservoir and once I had all my waterproofs on set out, but was already frustrated as I was unable to find a glove. One glove is useless without the other and though I had a spare pair of gloves these were not ideal as they were warmer and more suited to much colder temperatures. Nevertheless I put these on complete with a woolly hat and set off up the path that steeply climbs the tree-covered slopes.
There were no views at the top so I turned around and headed back down the way I’d come to the top of the ridge where a signpost directed me towards Castle Crag, the site of an old hill fort, that I had not visited the last time I was in the area. A well-made path brought me to the foot of a small rock mound on the far side of the ridge where a stunning view could be seen of the rarely visited Shoulthwaite Gill. A small scramble was required to get to the top of Castle Crag but it was so windy at the top I got straight back down the way I’d come, and only then discovered a much easier route up (or down) on the other side. My attention was directed towards a distinctive top that could clearly be seen from Castle Crag, so on returning to the top of the ridge I made my way north along the ridge, initially on a forest road, but soon on a faint path that maintained the top of the ridge.
This path weaved a cunning course around the trees until finally climbing a short, steep slope to the top of the Benn. The heather covered top gave a hint of what the terrain would have been like before trees had taken over, but once again the views were poor in the mist, however in good weather they must surely be good as they look north towards Skiddaw and Blencathra. Continuing north from the top I soon joined a muddy forest track that, turning left, I followed down the hill as the track gradually improved along with the scenery. The forest road eventually started affording me with awe-inspiring views of the crags that line Shoulthwaite Gill and finally found that the four hour drive had been worthwhile after all. The rain had briefly stopped at this point making for a thoroughly pleasurable walk as I slowly descended along the forest road parallel to Shoulthwaite Gill.
Eventually I reached a gate that led me to a bridge from where I could stand in awe of the stunning views up the narrow ravine past the craggy walls of Shoulthwaite Gill. I have used this bridge several times before, when in Shoulthwaite Gill, but it was not actually on my route for this walk so I returned over the bridge into the wood and made my way along forest roads past the tranquil Shoulthwaite Moss to Bridge End Farm. Ahead of me was Great How, a wooded hill that Wainwright failed to pay much attention to, so despite the rain that was pouring down again I thought I’d take this opportunity to visit it. A wide forest track leads to the southern end of the hill where a narrowing and steepening path leads all the way up to the top. The dull path got better as I neared the top, but the rain was making the path very wet and slippery until eventually I got to a recently cleared area around the summit. The trunks and wood on the ground made navigation around the top tricky, but a clear path led me to a seat that must have tremendous views across the reservoir when the weather is good, but not on this walk.
Eventually I reached the summit where the views were dreary in this weather and across the felled ground, so I made my way back down to the southern end of the hill where after a moment of confusion I found a narrow path that drops steeply to the shore of the lake. This was a delightful path that was sadly far too short as just as I was beginning to enjoy the path the dam loomed into view and the path came to an end. This may have been a short walk, but I think it was the best that I could have done in the poor weather. The walk was saved by the views that I had of the crags in Shoulthwaite Gill that were exactly what I had been missing, not only all autumn, but all year. Those moments when the rain had briefly stopped, while beside Shoulthwaite Gill, made the whole trip worthwhile, and fortunately I would not be going home for another two days.
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