Aline Wood and into Harris

Tuesday 22nd August 2017

After my first full day on the Hebridean Way I had been met by the harsh realities of the Lewis Moor as I was attacked my midges while the rain poured on me. The weather had deteriorated during the course of that first day so that when I got up for my second full day on the trail it was raining, as it had done for most of the night, and it continued to rain throughout the day with only a temporary easing during the afternoon. While being eaten alive by midges I packed up my sodden tent and set off along the Hebridean Way, a new long distance trail that has recently been opened and runs the length of the Western Isles from Vatersay in the south to Stornoway in the north. Since I’d already walked the length of the Outer Hebrides in that direction, two years before, I was doing the walk in the opposite direction starting from Stornoway and after my second night had reached a point just east of the township of Balallan on the Isle of Lewis. Setting off along the Hebridean Way I soon came across a turf path, which is a simple method of constructing a path through boggy moorland by digging two parallel ditches and piling the turf in between.

I had encountered turf paths the day before and once again, on this long stretch around Loch Stranndabhat, I was walking on this uneven sometimes boggy path through bleak, featureless moorland in the pouring rain. Occasionally a blessed gravel path appeared where the ground was rocky and the trenches could not be dug and on those occasions I was able to walk a lot quicker than on the precarious and uneven turf. Through the rain I slowly made my way around Loch Stranndabhat until I eventually reached the main road, near Arivruaich, at the point where two years previously I had ventured onto the moor trying to follow the Hebridean Way, but after a short distance I find an abandoned digger and no sign of the path beyond, which was clearly yet to be constructed. It was good to now be able to see and walk along the constructed Hebridean Way following it all the way when previously I had been unable. After a short distance along the road I turned off onto an old section of road that moves quite a distance away from the modern road and provided me with a quiet and relaxing walk through the drizzly landscape.

A wooden boardwalk appeared as I approached the Aline Community Woodland that provided me with a wonderful walk through the wood beside the Abhainn Ruadh river. This well-made path took me onto a wide stony track that I remembered coming down two years ago, so I turned right and climbed beside the thundering waters of the river that was swollen by the rains. After crossing the river the path narrows onto a recently constructed section that hadn’t been there previously and was a pleasure to walk upon through the light, almost negligible rain up the valley and past the conifer plantations that lie in small groups either side of the river. This was an enjoyable walk despite the grey, murky weather as I slowly made my way uphill on the excellent stony path eventually leaving the woodland and climbing to the top of Griamacleit. Two years ago I had followed surveyor’s posts down this hill, but now I had an excellent path to follow that snakes all the way up to the top of the hill where good weather provides excellent views north across the Isle of Lewis and south to the hills of Harris. Two years ago I had been able to enjoy the views from this point, but unfortunately I didn’t have much in the way of views on this occasion.

On the other side of the hill the gravel path slowly descends back down the hill to a section of old road not far from the main road beside Loch Ghille Chiopain. Beyond that point, except for occasional bits of old road, I now had to walk beside the main road as I headed into the Isle of Harris, the hillier part of the long island that comprises the isles of Lewis and Harris, and through Bowglass and Ardvourlie with views left along the extensive fiord of Loch Seaforth. When I eventually reached the start of the Harris Walkway I was hopeful that this pre-existing trail had received a makeover following its adoption into the Hebridean Way as previously I had found it to be very boggy in places, particularly on this initial section. Sadly after an early promise I found that the path was just as boggy as before which is really annoying as the Harris Walkway could be an excellent trail if only it was properly maintained. The path climbs into the beautiful Harris Hills just as the weather began to improve with the rain finally stopping, though the views were still poor and marred any chance I may have had of seeing Clisham, the highest hill in the Western Isles. The boggy path climbs up through a pass between Cleit Àrd and Tomnabhal to eventually reach another section of old road.

Crossing the modern road I took a turning to the left onto the road that heads to Màraig and Rhenigidale where there is a great youth hostel and it was very tempting to divert onto the road that would take me all the way to this hostel. However this is not on the Hebridean Way and would involve bypassing the path over Bràigh an Ruisg and beside Lochannan Lacasdail, a path that I was keen to do. I was also running short of food and needed to visit the shops in Tarbert, so with huge regret at missing the hostel I turned off the road and took the path up to the top of the pass. The condition of this path underfoot was much better than on the earlier section of the Harris Walkway and the temporarily dry weather enabled me to really enjoy this path as it climbs to the top of the pass and suddenly reveals the stunning view down Gleann Lacasdail with the loch stretching out towards the sea at the southern end. Blue skies would have made this view better, but it was still a pleasure to walk along this gorgeous path all the way down the valley until I eventually reached the road at the southern end of the loch.

By now it was late afternoon, the heavy rucksack was troubling me and I was beginning to get really tired, so when I found a place to stop I pitched my tent, but as soon as I  stopped walking the midges descended on me in droves. I was not going to be sorry to see the end of the midges on this walk as they had been plaguing me ever since I started to walk through Lewis and Harris. The usually strong Hebridean winds were absent which was encouraging the wee beasties to come out and have a feast on poor, weary walkers such as myself. After pitching my tent I walked the short distance into Tarbert where I got some food and headed back to the midges. Despite the poor weather and the midges this was a better day than the day before as once I had got over the tricky turf path at the start of the day I had the pleasure of walking along some excellent paths. The paths in the Aline Community Woodland are particularly good and make me wish that the whole of the Hebridean Way was up to that standard. The highlight of the day was being back amongst the wonderful Harris landscape after the dreary, flat Lewis moorland; it was just great being amongst the fabulous hills of Harris again.