Cambrian Way: out of the Black Mountains

Sunday 11th August 2024

At the end of my previous day on the Cambrian Way I had stopped a little short of where I’d originally planned, but later than I should have walked after a strenuous day. I was near the head of the short valley that contains the stream Nant Bwch which flows into the Vale of Ewyas in the Black Mountains. This is an area that I have many fond memories of walking and I loved the opportunity that walking the Cambrian Way gave me to revisit these delightful hills. After a good night’s sleep I woke to overcast skies but once I was back on the ridge I had far reaching views across the Wye Valley and a brisk wind. My first climb was up the sprawling grassy hill of Rhos Dirion and to avoid going in the wrong direction I needed to keep to the edge of the escarpment that overlooks the wide valley, but I soon lost the views as I plunged into the low cloud that enveloped the hill. My excesses of the day before had left me aching and these now continued, especially on the steepest sections of the walk, so with more than two weeks strenuous walking ahead of me I was careful to take my time as I slowly climbed to the trig point that marks the top of Rhos Dirion. At the shallow col beyond I turned right to descend the escarpment a short distance in search of some water from the stream that flows through Cwm Cwmstab, which despite being a mere trickle was enough to fill my water bottles and quench my thirst until other sources of water could be found. Back on the path I continued along the ridge slowly climbing through the misty conditions until eventually I reached the top of Waun Fach, the highest point in the Black Mountains and now much improved compared with my first visit in 2002 when the top was bare mud.

Turning right I descended the ridge over Pen Trumau and enthused at the easy walking that the broad grassy ridges of the Black Mountains provides, so despite the poor weather I enjoyed walking along the curving ridge that led me down to a pass and up to Mynydd Llysiau where heather now decorated the landscape. At the next hill, the Cambrian Way obstinately climbs to the top of Pen Twyn Glas even though the clear path skirts around it, so I had to tackle the bogs that defended the approach before turning right at the top to rejoin the path and head along the ridge to Pen Allt-mawr where a steep ascent ensured that I was so tired when I reached the trig point I collapsed in the nearby shelter to hide from the strong winds and have my lunch. Soon after leaving the summit along the eastern edge I passed someone who commented that the weather had turned out good, which was a surprise for me to hear until I later realised that while I had stopped for my lunch the mist had cleared to reveal blue skies and sunshine. Although views ahead of me, to the south, were hazy, when I reached Pen Cerrig-calch and finally turned around I found that there were extensive views back along the ridge all the way to Waun Fach. I felt sure that I had walked over Pen Allt-mawr and Pen Cerrig-calch before, but I could not remember when and I cannot find any record of it. Fortunately the Cambrian Way was bringing me to places that I had not walked in over twenty years, if at all.

I was disappointed to have missed out on the views throughout the morning, and all too soon the views across my beloved Black Mountains disappeared as I turned back to the south and descended the broad slopes with views across the Usk Valley beyond. The sharp peak of Sugar Loaf, which I had climbed the day before, was to my left while Blorenge, which I had climbed a month before, was on the other side of the valley. My gradual descent brought me to Table Mountain and the Iron Age fort of Crug Hywel that overlooks and lends its name to the modern town of Crickhowell. Rather than walk all the way around the earthworks I soon came back down descending through bracken that towered above my head with the heat increasing significantly as I descended with the day becoming disagreeably hot. When I reached Crickhowell I had completed the fifth stage of the Cambrian Way, and since it was only half two in the afternoon I took the opportunity to rest for a while and keep out of the hot sun. With stage six being very long and arduous I wanted to keep going so eventually I left Crickhowell, across the River Usk and up to the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal where a short but delightful walk brought me to some disused lime kilns where a straight route, formally a tramway, led me up the hill and towards the awesome cliffs that line the valley.

A very steep ascent up an old incline was torture at this late time of the day though thankfully it was initially under the cover of trees and the earlier heat was beginning to fade, but the ascent was unrelenting and I was more than relieved when I finally reached the level path that runs along the base of the disused quarries. With stunning views across the valley I had a majestic walk across the side of the hill that gave me a chance to catch my breath. At a bend in the escarpment is the large, open cave of Eglwys Faen, but I could not find it despite searching several paths that led to treacherously steep drops into tiny openings in the hillside. I didn’t want to risk injury hunting for the cave so I returned to the path where I was able to admire the impressive crags of Chwar Mawr before continuing along the path that descended to the open moor of Waun Ddu in the National Nature Reserve of Craig y Cilau where I camped well away from the path. This was a much better day than the previous when I had struggled with tiredness and a lack of energy, but much of the walk was relatively easy along the grassy ridges of the Black Mountains that are always a pleasure that has been enjoyed many times over the past twenty-five years. I loved the opportunity to return on this occasion but I would have many more places to visit while on the Cambrian Way.