Loch Lomond & Cowal Way, day one

Monday 18th May 2026

Last year I walked the Cambrian Way across Wales from Cardiff to Conwy and I found it to be thoroughly enjoyable, so soon after I finished the trail I was thinking, firstly about whether I could do the Cambrian Way again, and secondly, before doing that, whether I could find something similar in the Highlands of Scotland. Throughout the rest of last year I tried to devise a trail in Scotland that would have the same appeal as the Cambrian Way. This was not easy because the Highlands of Scotland is a very different landscape to Wales since it is much bigger and there are very few footpaths in comparison. However, very early in the planning process I came across the Loch Lomond & Cowal Way and I decided that this should form the foundation or backbone of my trail across the West Highlands. I had considered starting on either the Isle of Bute or on Arran, but eventually I decided that I would start my trail across the West Highlands at the start of the Cowal Way, so I had spent the weekend in the pretty village of Tarbert and then, at the start of this day, a ferry brought me across Loch Fyne to Portavadie and the start of the trail. The sun was shining when I set off from the port, even though the forecast for the rest of the week was not so fortunate, so I was happy to have sunshine at this time. 

The trail soon branched off the access road to climb a track through woodland sprinkled with bluebells and gorse before turning onto a narrow footpath that continued to climb until I reached a clearing where I had views back across Loch Fyne. The descent brought me to the ruins of a castle, around Asgog Loch and past the sheep at the head of the loch to reach a road, which took me past the remains of a gunpowder works. Soon I was climbing again on a green lane lined with gorse with striking views back to the low-lying hills behind me and once I was at the top of the low pass there were views ahead of me towards the channel which separates the Isle of Bute from the mainland, known as the Kyles of Bute. First I had to negotiate a golf course, which was quickly done and soon I was walking along a green lane, lined with gorgeous displays of bluebells looking fabulous in the sunshine. Before too long, I reached the shore of the Kyles of Bute where the views across to Bute compensated for now having to simply walk beside the road for a long time through the villages of Kames and Tighnabruaich. Even though the mountains of Arran later appeared to the south, I was more interested in the view north where the channel narrowed and the clouds seemed darker and more ominous.

Slowly, I made my way along the road, beside the loch until eventually the public road came to an end and I continued on a private estate road plunging into woodland littered with rhododendrons. A climb brought me to a waterfall and back done at the shore I passed Caladh Harbour and eventually reached the end of the road beside some cottages. At low tide I could have proceeded from there along the beach, but since the tide was high I had no choice but to make my way along a tortuous route through the overgrown rhododendrons between cliffs and the shores of Loch Riddon. This could have been an exciting traverse, but the ground was so wet and complex it could never be considered enjoyable, so I was relieved when after a very slow mile I eventually reached a house whose access road provided me with much easier walking. I had gotten very hot straining along that difficult path with hardly any respite, though one had afforded me with views through the rhododendrons back towards the Isle of Bute. When I was finally back on a road I was able to cool off while continuing to walk beside the loch and enjoy the views across the water.

An extended section of road walking now followed as I reached the A8003 road and walked beside that for a while until eventually, before the road crossed the River Ruel, I branched off to follow a track beside the river that brought me to a minor road. This took me over the historic two-arched Telford Bridge over the River Ruel and onto the A886 road, which I soon came off to take a lane that led me through the Clachan of Glendaruel. Here, there was a medieval church with some carved stones from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries in a separate building, which I did have a look at, but I don’t think my life is any different for having seen them or for going inside the church. Back on the road I followed that through the valley of Glendaruel until eventually I reached a caravan park and campsite where I spent a lovely evening and the night. This was a long walk, possibly a bit too long for the first day on the trail, but it was rather easy with very little climbing, especially once I reached the shore of the Kyles of Bute. My rucksack felt very heavy and I was certainly carrying more food than I really needed. The highlight of the walk was not the rough section of footpath as this was too wet and slippery, and instead I think it was the sunny weather, which, though not spectacular, judging by the poor weather forecast was fabulous in comparison to what was to come.