Coire Làir

Monday 27th May 2019

To start my second week in the Scottish Highlands I caught a train from the city of Inverness to the tiny, remote station of Achnashellach where I was happy to find sunshine after enduring a weekend in Inverness that was filled with rain. I was hopeful for some good weather as I set off north into Coire Làir heading towards Torridon and initially passed dense rhododendron groves in the Achnashellach Forest before taking a path that follows the River Làir up fabulously craggy terrain high above Glen Carron. The good weather tempted me to come off the path and cross the river to climb the steep slopes of the Corbett, Fuar Tholl, which I had not visited previously, however the river was fast flowing so crossing it would not have been easy. Prudently, I stayed on the path and continued to climb, and soon it started to rain, which prompted me to put my waterproof cover over my rucksack, but as I was doing that I was attacked by a squadron of midges, the first I had encountered on this holiday. Hastily, I put my waterproofs on and set off up the path soon leaving the midges behind as I climbed the steep path only for the rain to end before too long. This was no help as I was already the sweating in my waterproofs with no wind and nothing to cool me down.

This is a stunning path through fabulous scenery, but I was very hot from the exertion and humid conditions that were distracting me from what should have been a tremendous walk. Finally the terrain eased and a slight breeze appeared that cooled me down so I could enjoy the awesome surroundings before me of Coire Làir. I have been through this valley several times in the past, though the only time it was in ascent was in 2014 when I diverted off the main path to climb Beinn Liath Mhòr to the north of the valley. On the southern side is the higher Munro of Sgòrr Ruadh, but the former is the more appealing having also taken that route in 2009, and it was very tempting for me to be lured that way again as there is fabulous walking along a thrilling two kilometre ridge leading up to Beinn Liath Mhòr. Sunlight was gleaming on the white quartzite stones of the ridge, while in contrast, the red sandstone on the steep buttresses of Sgòrr Ruadh looked dark and unappealing. Beyond the top of the pass between these mountains I could see blue skies that promised good weather to come while Coire Làir sat under dark clouds that kept the temperature down as I made my way through the valley.

In the past I had always gone over one of the two Munros and so I had never before taken the path in the middle of the valley, therefore I ignored the paths that branch off to either side of Coire Làir and headed straight towards the top of the pass. Gradually, as I climbed, the sun reclaimed the valley while beyond Glen Carron I could see that rain was falling on the area where I had been walking during the first week of my holiday, which seems typical of the Scottish Highlands where the weather is often highly localised. Slowly I made my way up a heavily eroded path to the top of the pass before descending steeply into Coire Grannda where my knees complained painfully all the way down. Once the terrain mercifully eased I was able to enjoy the stunning views ahead of me towards the Torridon giants, most notably Liathach, which was looking very dark and ominous as low cloud covered the summit of the Munros. During the first week of my holiday I had followed the route of the Cape Wrath Trail as far as Strathcarron and now on this walk I was continuing that trail north, so on the edge of Coire Grannda I came off the excellent path that turns east to head over Bealach Bàn and headed north.

Initially there was no path across the stony slopes although occasionally I came across small cairns that I assumed marked the route of the Cape Wrath Trail, until eventually I found a clear path that slowly descends into Glen Torridon while ahead of me were excellent views towards Beinn Eighe. While Liathach remained shadowy, Beinn Eighe shone in the sun with its cap of quartzite, similar to Beinn Liath Mhòr, making a striking sight that drew me irresistibly on. The increasingly well-made path was a joy to walk upon as it passed lovely streams where small waterfalls in tranquil settings provided delightful spots for me to stop and enjoy the surroundings. Eventually I came down to the bottom of the valley, passing the private Ling Hut and over the road onto the path that climbs into Coire Dubh Mór, between Liathach and Beinn Eighe. Despite a cold northerly wind, the weather was improving all the while with almost clear blue skies overhead by early evening, but by then it was too late to start to climb either mountain. It was frustrating to come so far and then have to wait before climbing Beinn Eighe, but until then I could bask in the awesome mountain scenery and enjoy the surroundings while camped between the amazing mountains of Torridon.