Black Fell and Elter Water

Sunday 29th December 2024

My unsuccessful walk along the Cambrian Way in August had left me in a poor state of health and having used all of my holiday entitlement from work it was a long time before I could do some serious walking again. In previous years I have been able to go to the Lake District just before Christmas, but this was not possible last year since Christmas was in the middle of the week so eventually I decided that I would go after Christmas instead. I had been eagerly anticipating this holiday throughout autumn, but then I fell ill again over Christmas and feared that I would not be able to get away. However, a slight recovery encouraged me to go and on the Saturday after Christmas I got up very early to catch a train north, but the train was delayed going through Wolverhampton which led to me missing my connection. Other cancelled trains then left me standing in Manchester Piccadilly for two hours before I was finally able to catch a train that brought me into Windermere two hours later than planned and so my planned walk was abandoned. The weather was miserable with thick clouds enveloping the whole country, which wouldn’t inspire anybody to go for a walk so I decided that initially I would catch a bus to Ambleside, but my bad luck was still with me as the bus broke down and I had to wait for a replacement, finally reaching Ambleside at two o’clock, with only two hours of daylight left at this time of the year.

To get a walk in before it got dark I decided to retrace my steps from the last time I was in the Lake District, Christmas 2023, when I had walked from Hawkshead to Ambleside along an excellent cyclepath that initially runs alongside a road before passing through Pull Woods and past Blelham Tarn. Despite the poor weather I had an enjoyable walk even when it started to rain as this gave me a chance to try out my new Mac in a Sac poncho. I had read on a random website that ponchos are very good for walking in warm, humid weather, so since I had received the poncho in time I decided to take it to the Lake District and try it out. The first problem I encountered was with my walking pole getting in the way, but after a while I began to enjoy wearing it and I looked forward to further opportunities to trial my new poncho in the Lake District. As the light began to fade I arrived in the village of Hawkshead where I caught a bus to Coniston and the following morning, after a troubled night’s sleep, I was feeling very tired, so I was unsure what walk to do or anything except go back to bed.

My plans for the day were all rejected and I just wandered out of Coniston along good paths beside the road that took me past the head of Coniston Water and eventually led me into the woodland on Hill Fell, where I had come down the year before, and this delightfully relaxing walk refreshed my soul and body as I slowly climbed along the path that led me past a weir and eventually brought me to a car park, near Tarn Hows. After coming out of the conifer plantation, I took to the path that encircles the Tarns, that is the large lake that is at the heart of Tarn Hows, and despite light rain and strong winds I had a wonderful walk with stunning views across the Tarns to the surrounding hills. At the northern end I came across the path that goes to Iron Keld and towards Black Fell, and, despite thinking that it would be too windy to go up the fell, a moment later I came off a good path and onto the horribly boggy path that took me towards Black Fell. Since I had no plan for this day you can’t say I was going the wrong way, but I certainly hadn’t anticipated climbing Black Fell when I’d left Coniston. When I reached the rough lane between Oxen Fell and Knipe Fold I crossed onto a permissive path that weaved an interesting route through Iron Keld Plantation before joining the popular path that led me across the windswept fell with the summit of Black Fell before me.

The wind and mist did nothing to diminish the feeling of being at the summit of a fell in the Lake District with views in all directions, but soon I continued north along a narrow path that is relatively new. I previously took it in 2017, but it was so misty then I had been unable to appreciate it so I had planned to follow at some point during this holiday, little realising that I would do so now. The sketchy path had me doubting the route on occasions and later the path was so wet on steep ground it was difficult to stay upright, but eventually I reached woodland where a good path led me onto a road and down to the bottom of the valley at Skelwith Bridge. Ignoring Skelwith Force, I crossed the river and walked along the popular path that passes Elter Water to reach the village of Elterwater and beyond continues beside the river before turning south to slip past a slate quarry and climb through woodland that I have fond memories of walking through in 2021. While walking past Elter Water the weather had been relatively good with even a spot of blue sky, but by the time I had begun to climb again the skies were darkening.

As I crossed Little Langdale it started to rain while strong winds swept down the valley and into my face. The views across Little Langdale Tarn with the fells behind were still awesome, though I couldn’t take a picture of it while I battled against the wind and rain on a slippery, muddy path across the valley and over the precarious Slater Bridge, which I remember crossing in 2002 on my first ever visit to the Lake District, but never since. As the rain got heavier I put my waterproofs on, though my poncho soon came off again as I found it doesn’t help in windy conditions. At a turning to the left I branched off to pass disused quarry workings and reach Hodge Close where I followed the road out to Coniston. Considering that I had started this day very tired after poor sleep, this walk was surprisingly adventurous and was easily my longest walk since August. I always love being in the Lake District and it was already starting its rejuvenating effect on me.