Tarn Hows and around Holme Fell

Wednesday 1st January 2025

Ignoring that it was the start of a new year, I went to bed at a normal time and got up the following morning as usual, preparing to leave the Coniston Youth Hostel where I had been spending the last few nights. When I set off the weather was no better than it had been in the previous year as it was still raining and there was a brisk wind, though it wasn’t as bad as the torrential weather of the day before, which had left the ground very wet. I walked along the path that follows the main road out of Coniston, passing the turning to Tilberthwaite and Yew Tree Farm to reach the start of a path that climbs through woodland beside Tom Gill, which was now a raging torrent thanks to the heavy rain. The walk up was interesting and the falls were spectacular, compensating for the poor weather, but I think I would have still preferred to have been there in better weather as I had done in 2008 on my way to Coniston, though the falls then were merely a trickle. At the top of the path I was confronted with the Tarns that are the centrepiece of Tarn Hows and with the rain easing at this point I had a pleasant walk beside the lake heading north until I reached a signpost that directed me onto a good path that brought me to the byway that links Oxen Fell High Cross with Knipe Fold. The rain now returned, off and on, accompanied by a strong crosswind that made putting on my new Mac in a Sac poncho very difficult, in fact extremely frustrating as I was unable to straighten it up out without the assistance of someone else.

Eventually I gave up and left the poncho off, and after crossing the main road at Oxen Fell High Cross, I continued along the track until I reached a gate where I turned south onto the undulating ridge that heads towards Holme Fell. I had come this way in 2017 in misty conditions and I had been unable to appreciate it then so I was keen to return, but the wind and rain made this time no better, even though the visibility was better. The rain prompted me to put my new poncho back on, but the wind convinced me that this was a waste of time as the constant flapping became annoying. The poncho had been bought for the wet and humid days of summer when waterproofs just leave you hot and drenched in sweat, and it had been taken to the Lake District for a trial as I’d just bought it. It remains to be seen if it will work in the season intended. The maze of paths across Holme Fell made navigating along the undulating ridge difficult and prompted me to abandon it even when there was no alternative. One attempt to descend to my left proved to be futile and I had to climb back up onto the ridge, but finally I made another attempt that was more successful and led me onto the clear path that descends from Uskdale Gap to Yew Tree Tarn. A fast moving stream of water was flowing down the path washing away the loose stones so the path was not in a good state and I had to be careful as I made way down to Yew Tree Tarn where I turned left to pass through a waterlogged area north of the tarn.

The weather had already been showing signs of improving with breaks in the clouds even while I was on the Oxen Fell byway, but it had remained mixed with rain dominating in between the brief moments of sunshine and it was only now that the rain finally stopped. The ground was everywhere very wet as I slowly made my way over the pass beside the main road, passing Oxen Fell High Cross and continuing to Tongue Intake Plantation on a path that I had never taken before, so I loved the opportunity. In the wood I followed a bridleway that descends through woodland and felt very remote with no sign of civilisation across the grassy fields to the River Brathay that was meandering through the valley and reminded me of the Scottish Highlands. At a junction I turned left to cross Ben Beck and join the familiar route of the Cumbria Way, which I have taken many times and as the weather continued to improve with the skies clearing I followed the popular path to Skelwith Bridge. From there I kept to the south of the valley following minor roads climbing up to the hamlet of Skelwith Fold and back down to the river along Bog Lane. The views in the distance up Langdale were stunning though marred by the foreground being sheltered from the low sun as I followed the road into Clappergate and finally reached Ambleside.

It is a shame that I abandoned Holme Fell and failed to reach the summit, but since I had a long way to walk to Ambleside I felt I was short of time and didn’t need to waste time struggling up to the summit. This was a very frustrating day when the weather was better in the afternoon when I was uselessly making my way towards Ambleside, though this was an enjoyable walk and the improving weather held a promise for the rest of the week of better weather.