Buachialle Etive Mór

Thursday 13th September 2007

My original intention for this walk had been to go up the Black Mount, but that would require a lot of time and I was too slow setting off due to repeated trips to the shop (and a slow breakfast), soinstead I decided to do my planned walk for the next day: the Buachialle Etive Mór. I went up the wee Buachialle last year, but I'd never been to the top of the great gatekeeper for Glen Coe. Driving up from Crianlarich I parked at the car park just beyond Altnafeadh on the southern side of the road and walked beside the road to Altnafeadh taking the path opposite past Lagangarbh cottage and up into Coire na Tulaich.

This was a fabulous climb up a rocky, narrow corrie following a series of steps that intermittently followed the stream through stunning rock scenery that was awe-inspiring; I was enjoying every moment until I reached the scree. This seemed to go on forever and was very difficult for me to get a grip and left me having to walk on all fours with my hands on the stones for additional grip. Eventually I somehow managed to get up to more solid rocks and scrambled all the way up to the top. From there I had a tiring walk across a rocky terrain fighting against the wind to the summit of Buachialle Etive Mór, also known as Stob Dearg. I had fabulous views, despite the strong wind and overcast sky, but it wasn't clear which of the three small tops were the Munro. I think it was the middle top, and I think my Harvey map agreed with me though it's hard to tell. Whichever it was I went across to the end of the short summit ridge and looked out over the bleak Rannoch Moor in awe of my surroundings.

Coming down from the Munro I walked along the ridge over the 902m top and up to Stob na Doire. At 1011 metres it really deserves to be a Munro and it certainly looks like one, but it has not been afforded that honour. As consolation I had lunch on the top before continuing my traverse of the ridge descending steeply to the lowest point on the ridge (at 825m) and then climbed once more up to the top of Stob Coire Altruim. This top justly does not deserve to be a Munro as with barely any descent I walked to the end of the ridge and the second Munro of Buachialle Etive Mór, Stob na Bròige. With the entire length of the mountain completed I doubled back on myself, minimizing re-ascent by traversing the grassy southern slopes of Stob Coire Altruim, until I reached the top of Coire Altruim where I took the path down into the corrie, steeply at first and later scrambling beside the cascading stream.

This was a great walk down and I enjoyed every wonderful moment, but unfortunately it didn't last very long and soon I was crossing the River Coupall where I joined the path through Lairig Gartain and waded through bog after bog. My new boots were getting quite a testing, but that wasn't all. Before I reached the road it started raining, light at first but then heavier and heavier. With bog and rain to contend with I was relieved when I finally reached my car. Despite the way this walk ended I had a great time. The weather, even though it was still windy, was great and afforded me with amazing views across the densest area of Munros in Scotland. I could only hope the next day's venture onto the Black Mount would be as favourable.