Buttermere to Eskdale via Great Gable & Great End

Sunday 27th May 2007

The weather forecast for this day had been poor all week, but in the end it wasn't too bad as when the promised rain came it was merely patchy with clear views from the tops for much of the day and even sunshine on occasions. The only persistent and unwanted feature was a strong, cold, northerly wind, and at the start the weather really wasn't that bad, which started by walking around the southern shore of Buttermere through Burness Wood. I had never been along this side of the lake before and I found it rather uninteresting compared with the far superior northern shore path. Upon reaching the southern corner of the lake I headed up the steep, heavily constructed path to Scarth Gap.

As I began my climb from Scarth Gap to Haystacks it started raining, which would be the first of many such periods of rain throughout the day. After visiting the summit of Haystacks I descended the delectable hillside to Innominate Tarn and rejoined the path as it makes its awe-inspiring way around the top of Black Beck; the views across to Buttermere were, as always, awesome. After a short distance I took the path on the right past Great Round How to the corner of a fence and up the hill beside the fence to the top of Brandreth. After all that exertion I descended again crossing Gillercombe Head to climb up to the top of Green Gable plunging into the clouds as the rain began to fall again.

Leaving Green Gable behind I crossed the Windy Gap and climbed up Great Gable forsaking the path for a direct climb up the rocks, which was much more enjoyable way up, but it wasn't long before my fun was ended by a tedious ascent up the loose rocks that litter the summit. With a very strong wind to contend with I climbed up to the summit and immediately descended to the Westmorland Cairn on the other side, where I had my lunch. During lunch the clouds lifted and the sun came out revealing amazing views into Mosedale and down Wasdale Head. After lunch I returned to the summit where I was surprised by the ferocity of the wind that I had been sheltered from during lunch, so as I descended to Sty Head, despite the weather appearing gorgeous, I was buttoned up against the strong wind, but it wasn't long before the sun went in and it started raining again.

Once at Sty Head I began Wainwright's direct ascent of Great End from Sty Head and I was climbing right from the beginning scrambling up the rocks until I was joined by the faint path of Wainwright's route. This is a great route that I have been trying to do for over a year. On two separate occasions I had abandoned this walk because of bad weather (in October and at Easter last year). This time I wasn't going to let the weather stop me, so despite the strong wind and even a brief spell of hail I was determined not to give up. By carefully following the faint path I eventually made it up to the summit of Great End and was rewarded with great views of the Scafell Pikes. A check of the time however showed me that I wouldn't have time to visit the Pike and I would have to hurry in order to get to the Hostel in time. Descending around Calf Cove I joined the Scafell Pikes path down to Esk Hause where I said goodbye to the stunning scenery and dropped down south picking up a path beside the infant River Esk where the young river passes through an impressive narrow gorge that was really exciting to walk through. I had never been down there before and I had missed a real treat. Upon passing through I literally ran down the tongue to the bottom of Calfcove Gill. Upon crossing Little Narrowcove Gill the path skirted the edge of the flat expanse of Great Moss, however I stayed beside the river following a faint path that stayed surprisingly dry under foot except for during the frequent stream crossings, which my new shoes were easily able to cope with.

After crossing Great Moss I left the river at the point where it makes a sharp left turn and crossed over to the perimeter path, which leaves the marsh and climbs around the low hill topped by High Scarth Crag. This fascinating path, reminiscent of the nearby Terrace Route to Sca Fell, skirts the edge of the marsh of Damas Dubs but stayed largely dry, before dropping steeply down to Scale Bridge in Eskdale. With time advancing I hurried alongside the fell wall to Taw House and along the track to the road, where a short brisk walk brought me to the Youth Hostel.